Lucca Italy - a lesser-known fairytale city.

Among the many treasures of Tuscany lies Lucca, a fairytale-like city with towering Renaissance walls in the shadows of the Apuan Alps and the Pisan Mountain Range. Stroll through the city to discover ancient traditions and peculiarities still intact – many stores, for example, still carry their original shop signs, so you may think you are entering a butcher with a macellaio sign swinging from the doorframe, only to find shelves stacked high with designer sunglasses inside. From cycling around the city walls to exploring breathtaking Versailles-inspired gardens and sipping on local Tuscan wines overlooking the city below, here is a guide to what to see, where to eat, and drink in Lucca.

Activities

Activities

  • When Napoleon conquered Lucca in the 18th century, he appointed his sister, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, its ruler. She chose Villa Reale di Marlia, a grand 17th-century estate, as her summer residence. The princess exponentially enhanced the villa’s gardens and architecture, transforming it into a splendid example of Neoclassical style inspired by the Parisian gardens of Versailles. In 2015, the villa underwent a restoration process to revive its grandeur after a period of abandonment, preserving the empire-style interiors, frescoed ceilings and sensational Carrara marbled bathrooms. Stroll through the magnificent gardens and explore the Teatro di Verzura, the oldest theatre in Europe. In 2024, the villa will open 11 new suites.

  • Founded in 1820, the botanical gardens of Lucca preserve two centuries of maintenance, research and preservation. It was Elisa Bonaparte who commissioned its opening. The princess had already expressed her enthusiasm towards horticulture – the first plant species donated to the botanical gardens were those from Villa Reale di Marlia. Wander through the beautifully maintained pathways lined with centuries-old trees like the Ginkgo Biloba tree, pastel pink and fuchsia coloured magnolias and rhododendrons, exotic and native plant species and a serene water lily pond. Botanical enthusiasts can also visit the museum, which contains thousands of dried flower and plant specimens spanning two centuries, and, for the little ones, there are a few immersive events and workshops available to book on the website.

  • Laura di Collobiano and Moreno Petrini have owned this historic home since the early 1990s and have dedicated the last 30 years to establishing the estate as one of the region's top organic vineyards. The grand manor house, a former aristocratic summer residence originally built in the 15th century, is the heart of the estate. Located at the feet of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, the house is surrounded by 55 hectares of vineyards, olive groves, woods, wheat fields and bee hives. There are four wines biodynamically produced here: three reds and one white. Walk among the vineyards, visit the cellars and taste the fantastic produce with a few nibbles as you soak up the sweeping views across Lucca.

  • The easiest and quickest route to get to grips with Lucca is via a bike ride around the 40-foot high and 90-foot wide city walls. The path is a flat, three-mile loop shaded under the trees, where you can stop to admire the sights or savour a picnic on the grass along the way. There are many places to rent bikes and e-bikes in the city centre, but for a simple and easy solution, head to Amici Bici, where you can rent a city bike with a little basket for 5 euros per hour (25 euros a day). Pricing also includes a helmet and a lock. Make sure you book a few days before, especially in high season.

Restaurants

Restaurants

  • Despite this restaurant’s unassuminfaçade, enter to find an extraordinary world of Venetian stuccoed ceilings and 18th-century frescoes. It was taken over in 2013 by three young chefs, Lorenzo, Stefano and Benedetto, who, through passion and innovation, have brought a fresh meaning to fine dining. Exceptional homemade, crispy sourdough and local olive oil kick start the meal, which can be taken either a la carte or as one of three tasting menus. Menus change on a seasonal basis.

    Website: ristorantegiglio.com

  • This contemporary restaurant in the heart of the city was opened during the pandemic by Francesco Aytano and Nicola Galatà, who, despite obvious difficulties, managed to successfully create an exceptional foodie hotspot in the city. An intimate space for a dinner date or a laid-back meal with friends, come to sip on excellent local wines and taste food that toes the line between innovation and tradition. A sharing platter of Tuscan cheeses is always a winner, but the selection at Osteria Nova takes it to a whole new level, with a selection of cheese aged under hay, blue cheese and a soft, creamy brie-type cheese, all sourced from local farms. Among the mains, the 800g Fiorentina is a solid option, especially when paired with a glass of San Genovese wine.

    Website: osterianova.eatbu.com

  • Whenever he went on surfing holidays with friends, chef Cristiano Tomei would sneak off to visit local markets and see what exciting produce he could discover. He later opened L’Imbuto within the Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, gaining a Michelin star only two years later. Today, however, the restaurant resides within the elegant setting of Palazzo Pfanner’s Limonaia, facing the splendid baroque-style gardens. The chef is known for his creativity and perseverance in curating constantly evolving dishes with seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. All you have to do is choose between five, seven or nine courses and sit back to enjoy the experience.

    Website: limbuto.it

  • Buca di Sant’Antonio is a typical Italian osterie offering a warm environment and rustic Tuscan dishes. Think tables huddled close together, copper pans hanging from the wooden-beamed ceilings and warm, dimmed lighting. The menu is extensive, so it may be hard to choose, but you can’t go wrong with the homemade tagliolini with butter and truffle when in season, although rumour has it Princess Margaret loved the Farro Minestrone.

    Website: bucadisantantonio.com

  • Antica Locanda di Sesto is a favourite among locals here. Secluded from the city centre, the restaurant’s humble exteriors lead you to a warm, friendly space with wooden boiserie and shelves showcasing local delicacies. Here, you’ll find traditional Tuscan recipes such as the fantastic gigli pasta with Cinta Senese sausage ragù as well as a revived version of a Roman carbonara flamboyantly mantecato (creamed) in a large pecorino wheel. Grilled meats are also a home run, especially when paired with a glass of red wine.

    Website: anticalocandadisesto.it

Bars

Bars

  • Gigliola is the spin-off daughter of Ristorante Il Giglio for those seeking a more casual, quirky spot. Upon entry, a shelf of perfectly baked sourdough bread welcomes you. Opposite, you’ll find a carefully curated selection of wines: predominantly natural and biodynamic. Visit for sharing plates (the pita with falafel is delicious) as you taste-test your way through local wine in a warm, convivial atmosphere.

  • Located within the historic walls of Lucca, Magellano is your go-to for a classic Negroni. Inside this red-brick building, sit back and relax on the distressed, brown leather Chesterfield or take your pick of one of the upholstered antique chairs and sip on your favorite cocktail – there is a separate cocktail menu that changes in line with seasonal produce and mirrors the cuisine at their most recently opened restaurant Magazzino. If you wish to broaden your taste buds and taste something new, then venture for a TPOP: Amaretto, orange liqueur and vanilla.

  • Enoteca Vanni is one of the most ancient wine cellars in the city, dating back to the third century AD. The owner, Paolo Petroni, welcomes wine enthusiasts and those eager to experience the finest Italian wine paired with local charcuterie and cheese boards. The selection counts around 55,000 labels meticulously sourced from around the country and across borders, resulting in a collection of some of the finest and rarest bottles in Europe.